Reviews/Notes

I created this page to collect useful information that I have learned through personal experience or have found on the web. Some of this information I borrowed from gixxer.com. Please let me know if any of this information is wrong and I'll correct it.

WARNING!!! Perform these modifications at your own risk. Some can damage your engine!!!

Gearing

Exhaust

Power Commander

Power Commander Ignition Scatter - reply from Dynojet

PC3/R vs. Static Ignition advancer

Gear Position Timing De-restriction (GPTD:)

Brake Lines

Brake Fluid

Engine Oil

Turn Signal Relay

Yellow Box

PAIR Removal

PAIR Modification

Will 600/750 Bodywork GSXR1000?

GSXR750 Velocity Stacks

Will the GSXR750 Radiator Work on GSXR1000?

Cheap Way to Bump Compression 

Tank Protector

Graphics

Leathers

Gloves

Boots

 

 


2001 GSXR1000 Gearing

2001 GSXR1000 uses DID 530 chain and 17/42 tooth sprockets. I modified mine by installing a 44 tooth rear sprocket (part #: 482) from Sprocket Specialists. If you don't care about top speed it is a very effective mod. It woke the bike up without making too buzzy during long highway drones. The theoretical top speed with this mod is ~177MPH. The quality of Sprocket Specialists is average with lightening hole machining looking rough as though dull tooling was used. For higher quality see: either  AFAM or Vortex

Now first gear is totally useless. The bike now wheelies easily in 2nd and 100+ mph wheelies are possible by tugging hard on the handlebars.

Price: ~$50.

Ordered from: Hi-Side Racing

Modification effectiveness rating: 10 out of 10!


Exhaust

After much consideration I settled on Hindle. The reason I chose Hindle was because I felt it was best system for the money. Hindle faxed me a dyno sheet showing a healthy horsepower increase without any low end loss. As always take manufacturer's claims with a chunk of salt.

I have owned Hindle systems in the past and found them to be off racer quality - allot of performance with average cosmetics. For my GSXR1000 I ordered a stainless steel high-mount system with Titanium oval canister. I was pleasantly surprised with the improved quality and feel that this system  is on par with other brands.  

The exhaust came nicely packaged, but without ANY instructions! Having owned close to twenty motorcycles in the last 20 years - all with aftermarket exhausts I was not intimidated. The installation still took about 3 hours. 

The pipe is surprisingly quiet for a full race exhaust.

Check your left oil cooler line with Hindle. Mine was very close when cold and contacted the line when fully hot. I spaced my oil cooler about 1/4" forward had to use longer bolts. Check the clearance when hot, I was surprised how much it expanded.

After installing a full system you will have to perform the Set Error Code Fix.

I am very pleased with the overall quality of the pipe. Definitely best bang for the buck.

The bike now runs noticeably stronger on top. Without fuel changes the bike developed a sight flat spot at around 4,500 - 6,000 rpm, this was corrected by installing DynoJet's Power commander

Price: ~$600.

Ordered from: Street & Competition.

Modification effectiveness rating: 7 out of 10.


Power Commander - PC3R

I think this thing is cool! After many years of jetting the my own bikes this is the first bike I owned that is fuel injected. After spending 15 minutes installing it on my bike I was ready to jet - I mean Map. :) I plugged it into my laptop and downloaded the Hindle map.  The whole operation took about 20 minutes. I like fuel injection! This map is a combination of Hindle map from the Power Commander website and a ignition table developed by the Ti Force exhaust. I feel the biggest advantage of PC3R was smoothing out the power band and eliminating a slight take off stumble. I my ass dyno is also suggesting a slight horsepower increase on top. 

When the PC3R first came out some people were complaining of hot starting problems. Luckily I have not experienced this personally, but the problem was finally traced to too wide of a gap between the crank position center and it's pick-up. If you are having this problem follow this link for a possible solution: Crank Position Sensor adjustment 

After installing PC3R do not forget to synchronize the bike's throttle position sensor with PC3R. Dynojet's instructions for setting the throttle position. Unfortunately for GSXR1000s the bike must be turned on and running for the throttle position to be set. This is not a problem with a 0% position, but 100% position cannot be set with the engine running. You have two choices. Fist you can get a power adaptor that uses a 9 volt battery to power the PC3R or use a work around method described bellow.

Set the 0% position with the engine running.

To set the 100% position with the engine running open the adjustment window on you laptop. Turn the engine off by toggling the kill swith to OFF position and instantly toggling it back to ON position and very quickly, opening throttle 100% and pressing 100% command button on your laptop. This work because power is still supplied to the PC for about 3 seconds after the kill switch is turned OFF.

Before the re-set the 0% was 57 and 100% was 220. After the reset 0% is 57 and 100% is 216.

Price: ~$300.

Ordered from: Good guy deal

Modification effectiveness rating: 6 out of 10.


Power Commader 3/R Ignition Scatter

Question: I have read several concerns regarding a supposed signal scatter problems of the PC3/Rs. As was explained to me signal scatter results from PC3s inability to cope with fast frequency signals. The scatter results in the loss of signal. Can you comment on this?

Answer: There is one person (a competitor) claiming all sorts of things. One of the current ones is that the PCIIIr causes "power reducing" signal scatter. This is simply not the case. There are some bikes, such as the VFR800 Honda, that will not accept much in the way of ignition advance. If the ignition is advanced, electronically or mechanically, the bike will cut out (rev limit) early. This is not due to our processing speed, but to a bike design issue. The ignition circuit has been tested to well over 20,000 rpm (using the crank wheel from a GSXR1000) without any problems in processing speed. The ignition processor runs at 14.768 MHz. This translates into roughly 3.7 million instruction per seconds.

There are cases where a crank position sensor is out of specification enough to cause a poor signal to the Power Commander. This will cause a lack of output (misfire) and not "scatter". This is a fairly rare occurrence on a Japanese bike. We designed the Power Commander to not fire on a signal that does not match the proper stock pattern. This is a built in safety. Instead of possibly advancing the timing a dangerous amount we simply do not fire the ignition at all. 

The PCIIIr is being used by racing teams such as American Honda Racing, Team Valvoline/Emgo Suzuki, and Team Alstare Suzuki (World Super Sport) to name only a few. Miguel DuHamel has won the Daytona, Brainerd, and Mid Ohio 600 Super Sport races using the PCIIIr. I can assure you that the Honda factory team would not be using it if it induced this "scatter" problem. 

The individual that started this and other rumors I believe also blames the Power Commander for world hunger, the power crisis in California, and global warming. We have spent a great deal of time and money developing this product and after a while we do tire of all of the false accusations. I hope this has answered any concerns.


PC3/R vs. Static Ignition advancer

If you don't already have a PC3 and is planning to buy one, a better solution would be to buy a PC3//R (~ $60 more than PC3 = price of the static advancer) and simply enter the advance values that are equivalent to that of the static advancer which you planed to purchase. Entering the same advance value in the ignition table is quicker and simpler than installing a static advancer and will allow you to further customize your ignition maps in the future. To me this is a no brainer unless you already own a PC3 or are not planning to buy one. I am running with this setup w/o problems.


GPTD - Gear Position Timing De-restriction

Supposedly GSXR1000s are restricted in two ways. First, the engine timing is retarded in the first three gears up to 4,000 rpm. Second, the engine is prevented from pulling the redline in sixth gear and therefore preventing the bike from reaching it's theoretical speed of 186 mph. As far as I know the restriction in the first 3 gears was never proven, but the top speed restriction is well documented. Since I do not care about reaching the 186 mph I did not do this mod. But here are the schematics that I found somewhere on the web. 

Apparently you can de-restrict the by fooling the bike into thinking its is always in fifth gear. The gear position sensor (GPS) is nothing more than a variable resistor that varies resistance based on the gear selection. Fifth gear resistance is 6.8 K OHMS.

Schematic (Lifted from somewhere on the internet.)


Brake Lines

Installing Goodridge stainless braided brake line was a freaking nightmare! I am still pissed off about it!  My LP/Goodridge front kit came with 1.0 thread pitch master and two 1.25 caliper banjos.  ALL FRONT BANJOS ON GSXR1000 ARE 1.25s!

The rear kit had all 1.0 banjos. GSXR1000's  rear master is 1.0 and rear caliper is 1.25.  After the paying extra for correct banjos the kit installed ok. In my opinion upgrading to stainless lines is one of the best modifications one can make.

Price: ~$80.

Ordered from: Good guy deal

Modification effectiveness rating: 10 out of 10.


Brake Fluid

I use Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 from your local auto parts store. I've used this brake fluid on every local race track without any problems. This includes Road America where you reach top speed 3 times per lap.


Engine Oil.

I exclusively use synthetic Mobil 1 15-50 car oil. I've been using Mobil 1 15-50 synthetic car oil exclusively for about 15 years in approximately 20 bikes. All bikes were used hard on street, strip, and/or road courses. I have never had clutch or other oil related problems. I do not hesitate of recommending this stuff to friends.

In street bike I change oil every 1000 - 1500 miles. In track bike every other full day outing.


Turn Signal Relay


The Yellow Box


PAIR Removal

I just received my Motobits PAIR block off plates distributed by Moto International. The plates are basically slightly machined sheet aluminum that replace the read valve covers that seat on top of the valve cover. The only function of this modification is to save a little weight and neaten up the valve cover area. Some people claim that leaving PAIR in place will cause popping under deceleration, I personally never experienced this.

Price: ~$20.

Ordered from: Moto International

Modification effectiveness rating: 3 out of 10.


PAIR Modification

Not to be confused with PAIR removal. This modification connects the vacuum lines from PAIR to  the crankcase breather hose. Supposedly by scavenging the air from crankcase eases the displacement of the air for the pistons. This is more effective on the larger displacement engines like 1300cc  Hayabusa were gains up to 6 hp were reported. I did not do this modification because I am not sure what long-term maintenance hassles will result from sucking oily air in to the PAIR. I also heard that engine oil can be sucked in causing oil starvation.

This Jeff Wallace's web site link contains detailed description on how to do this: PAIR Mod


Will 600/750 Bodywork Fit GSXR1000?

NOT SURE... ,but according a post on gixxer.com 600 and 750 share the same bodywork, but the 1000 lowers are slightly different. The upper and the tail are supposedly the same. Please let me know if you can confirm this.


GSXR750 Velocity Stacks

Basically, the claim is that installing a shorter and un-slotted GSXR750 velocity stacks into the GSXR1000 air box will increase the top end by about 3 hp at the expense of a slight dip in the middle. I saw some dyno charts that support this claim and some that show increase on top and a dip at 9,000 rpm (unacceptable to me). Other people claim this to be an awesome modification using the ass dyno. My problem with that is sometimes inexperienced ass dynos lie and misinterpret a dip in the power band that is followed by a horsepower spike as increase in performance when the power was actually lost.

I am still trying to decide on this modification. If anyone has some dyno charts comparing before and after please let me know.

GSXR750 uses long stacks in the middle two cylinders, and short stacks in the outers. The part number of the shorts should be 13881-35F00 (came from gixxer.com)

Here is one dyno chart from Jeff Wallace's web site: Stacks1 

 


Will GSXR750 Radiator Work On GSXR1000?

NOT SURE... ,but a post on gixxer.com Claimed that GSXR750 radiator lack the bracket required for mounting an oil cooler.


Cheap Way to Increase the Compression

Do this one at your own risk. It can damage your engine! I did not perform this modification myself. I was told that removing the middle leaf from a replacement head gasket will bump the compression without adverse effects. 


More to come...